O M G

Oh Meatball Goodness

You get some bread with your one meatball.*

The world has never known a more perfect meatball hero. The bread is a demi-baguette from Il Forno Bakery in the Bronx, crusty without being so tough that the ingredients squirt out the sides. The cheese is excellent fresh mozzarella—not the packaged stuff that masquerades as mozzarella, smothering

most of the city’s meatball heros like a vengeful heir with a pillow. Chunky and bright red, the sauce has a bit of zip to it, but does not overwhelm the other ingredients. And what about the meatballs? They’re of small circumference, beefy, and slightly herbal-tasting.

I acquired this magnificent sandwich at the Meatball Shop, a new restaurant on Stanton Street that does only one thing, but does it very well. While the $9 price tag may seem excessive, especially with a similar-size hero available at every pizza parlor in town for $5 or $6, note that this one comes with a baby spinach salad topped with lemon vinaigrette and thinly sliced apples, transforming your hero into a balanced meal.

Read on.

Ahem, a hero is a balanced meal. Don’t you remember, from In Defense of Food, a person can practically survive on hotdogs, like for months?? A meatball sub is SO much more than a hotdog. Not that I am knocking hotdogs, cause I am not. I swear.

*ONE MEAT BALL

Little man walked up and down,To find an eatin’ place in town. He looked the menu thru and thru, To see what a dollar bill might do.

One meat ball, One meat ball, One meat ball, All he could get was one meat ball.

He told that waiter near at hand, The simple dinner he had planned. The guests were startled one and all, To hear that waiter loudly call.

One meat ball, One meat ball, One meat ball, All he could get was one meat ball.

Little man felt so ill at ease, He said: “Some bread Sir, if you please.” The waiter hollered down the hall: You get no bread with your one meat ball.

Little man felt so very bad, One meat ball is all he had. And in his dreams he can still hear that call You get no bread with your one meat ball.


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